Clockwise vs. Counterclockwise: Which Way Should You Drive Iceland's Ring Road?

Clockwise vs Counterclockwise: Pros & Cons

The direction you choose impacts more than just your daily route; it affects your entire experience. Let's break down the advantages and challenges of each approach.

Clockwise (West → North → East → South)

Pros:

1. Building Anticipation: This direction saves the most dramatic sights for last. The South Coast makes for a strong finish to your trip.
2. Fewer Crowds at First: The North and East get fewer visitors, giving you a calmer start to your Iceland experience.
3. Possible Weather Advantage: You might stay ahead of weather systems moving east.
4. Budget Management: Starting in areas with less expensive hotels helps stretch your money.

Cons:

1. Longer First Drives: The North and East have greater distances between sights, which can be tiring at the beginning of your trip.
2. Fewer Services: Gas stations, restaurants, and hotels are less frequent in the North and East. You need to plan more carefully.
3. Delayed Highlights: If time runs short, you might miss the South Coast's famous sights.
4. Weather Risk for Finale: Bad weather in your final days could affect seeing the South's key attractions.

Counterclockwise (South → East → North → West)

Pros:

1. See Famous Spots First: You'll reach Iceland's most photographed places (Seljalandsfoss, Skógafoss, Reynisfjara beach, Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon) within the first few days. This ensures you see these places even if time runs short.
2. Better Services Early: The South Coast has more hotels, restaurants, and gas stations. This helps when you're still getting used to Icelandic driving.
3. Shorter Drives at First: Attractions on the South Coast are closer together, making your first days feel more like sightseeing than driving.
4. Gradual Wind-Down: The quieter North and Eastfjords come later, offering a more relaxed pace after the South. The Snæfellsnes Peninsula makes for a nice end chapter.

Cons:

1. More Tourists: The South Coast attracts the most visitors, which can feel busy when you're just starting your trip.
2. Less Exciting Later: After seeing impressive glaciers and waterfalls early on, some travelers find the quieter areas less dramatic by comparison.
3. Weather Patterns: Since Icelandic weather often moves west-to-east, you might drive into bad weather on the South Coast.
4. Higher Costs First: South Coast hotels are typically the most expensive. Starting here can use up your budget early.

Weather Considerations When Choosing a Direction

Iceland's weather plays a crucial role in planning your Ring Road trip. The country's position in the North Atlantic creates unique weather patterns that can influence which direction makes more sense for your journey:

• Clockwise Advantage: Traveling clockwise (starting west and north) might allow you to "stay ahead" of weather systems. If a storm is moving eastward, you'd be traveling in the same direction, potentially experiencing better conditions. This strategy works especially well in the shoulder and winter seasons when weather changes are more frequent.
• Counterclockwise Safety Net: Going counterclockwise means hitting the South Coast first, where infrastructure is better. If severe weather hits later in your trip, you'd be in the northern or eastern regions, where missing a sight might feel less disappointing than missing the iconic South Coast attractions.

Seasonal Direction Recommendations

The weather can be a bigger or smaller deciding factor depending on the season:

• Summer (June-August): Either direction works well due to more stable weather and long daylight hours. Clockwise can help you avoid South Coast crowds.
• Shoulder Seasons (May, September): Clockwise might give you a weather advantage, as you'd move with the weather systems rather than against them.
• Winter (October-April): Counterclockwise is often safer. Start with the more accessible South Coast while you're fresh, and the roads are likely to be better maintained. The North and East can experience road closures in winter, so tackling these areas later gives you flexibility to adjust your itinerary if needed.

So...What's Better?

After weighing the pros and cons, you might still wonder which direction is truly best. Here's a simple breakdown to help you decide:

Choose Clockwise If:

• You have a longer trip (10+ days) with flexibility
• You like the idea of building toward a big finale
• You want to avoid crowds during your first days
• You're traveling in summer and want to see popular places when day-trippers have left

Choose Counterclockwise If:

• You have a shorter trip (7-8 days) and want to make sure you see the famous spots
• You want to see dramatic landscapes right away
• You prefer having more services while adjusting to Icelandic driving
• You're traveling in winter, when the South has better infrastructure

Neither direction is better; they simply offer different experiences. Counterclockwise gives you an exciting start with a gradual wind-down, while clockwise builds toward a spectacular finish.

Clockwise 7-Day Itinerary

If you've decided on the clockwise route, here's a detailed day-by-day plan. This journey starts in Reykjavík and moves west, then north, east, and finally south, beginning with quieter regions and building toward the iconic South Coast. You can do the Ring Road in 5 days if you go fast, but we chose the 7-day itinerary for convenience.

Day 1: Reykjavík to Snæfellsnes Peninsula (125 km)

Your journey begins as you leave Reykjavík and drive north to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, often called "Iceland in miniature" for its varied landscapes. Start at Ytri Tunga beach, where you can often spot seals on the shoreline. Next, visit Búðir to see the black church, standing in contrast against the lava fields. Continue to Arnarstapi, where sea cliffs and a natural stone arch create good photo spots. Spend time at Djúpalónssandur, a black pebble beach with remains of a British trawler that wrecked there in 1948. End your day at Kirkjufell mountain, known to Game of Thrones fans as "Arrowhead Mountain," before spending the night in Grundarfjörður or Stykkishólmur.

Day 2: Snæfellsnes to Akureyri (415 km)

Today involves your longest drive, but the changing landscapes make it worth it. Head east from Snæfellsnes through western Iceland. If time allows, take a detour to see Hvítserkur, a rock formation that looks like a dragon drinking from the sea, and Kolugljúfur Canyon, a geology wonder with stunning waterfalls. As you continue north, you'll pass through small towns where you can stop to see everyday Icelandic life. By late afternoon, you'll reach Akureyri, Iceland's second-largest urban area. Take time to explore downtown with its colorful houses, visit the botanical garden, and enjoy views over Eyjafjörður, Iceland's longest fjord. Spend the night in Akureyri, where you'll find many restaurants and places to stay.

Day 3: Akureyri to Mývatn (100 km)

After breakfast, head east toward Lake Mývatn, stopping first at Goðafoss (Waterfall of the Gods). According to stories, when Iceland converted to Christianity around 1000 AD, the local leader threw his pagan statues into this waterfall. The rest of the day is for exploring the Lake Mývatn area, a place of volcanic and geothermal features. Walk through the lava formations at Dimmuborgir, where twisted rock pillars create a "dark castle" landscape. Continue to Námaskarð, where bubbling mud pots and steaming vents create a colorful scene. If you want to hike, climb the crater of Hverfjall for views of the entire area. End your day relaxing in the Mývatn Nature Baths, looking out over the volcanic landscape as you soak in the warm water.

Day 4: Mývatn to Egilsstaðir (240 km)

Begin your day at Dettifoss, Europe's second most powerful waterfall. The amount of water rushing into the canyon is impressive, and you can feel the spray from far away. From here, drive through the beginning of the Eastfjords, where mountains meet the sea. Stop at fishing villages along the coast to experience traditional Icelandic life away from tourist areas. If you have time for a hike, visit Hengifoss, Iceland's third-highest waterfall, known for the red clay bands in the cliff. The 2.5 km trail takes about an hour each way. Spend the night in Egilsstaðir, the main town in East Iceland, or in nearby Seyðisfjörður, known for its rainbow road and colorful wooden buildings.

Day 5: Egilsstaðir to Höfn (275 km)

Today's drive takes you through the Eastfjords, where winding roads follow the coastline and small fishing villages sit between mountains and sea. The scenery here is less visited but just as beautiful as Iceland's most popular places. Take your time, stopping at viewpoints along the way. As you approach the southeast, visit the Stokksnes peninsula for views of the jagged Vestrahorn mountain rising from a black sand beach, which is especially impressive in changing light. End your day in Höfn, a harbor town known for its lobster. The harbor offers views of distant glaciers, creating a backdrop for your evening meal.

Day 6: Höfn to Vík (275 km)

Today you'll see some of Iceland's most famous landscapes as you enter the area of Europe's largest glacier, Vatnajökull. Your first main stop is Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, where icebergs break from the glacier and float in the blue waters before moving out to sea. Across the road is Diamond Beach, where ice chunks wash up on black sand, creating a glittering landscape. Continue to Skaftafell in Vatnajökull National Park, where you can hike to Svartifoss waterfall, framed by black basalt columns. Further west, see the deep Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon, carved by glacial meltwater over thousands of years. Before reaching Vík, drive through the Eldhraun lava field, covered in green moss, created by one of Iceland's worst eruptions in the 1780s.

Day 7: Vík to Reykjavík (180 km)

Your final day brings you to the South Coast's key sights as you head back to Reykjavík. Start at Reynisfjara, the black sand beach with basalt columns and Atlantic waves (stay back from the water, as the waves here are very dangerous). Offshore, you can see the Reynisdrangar rock formations, said to be trolls turned to stone by sunrise. Continue west to Skógafoss waterfall, where stairs lead to a viewing platform with wide views. Next, visit Seljalandsfoss waterfall, where you can walk behind the falling water for a different perspective. Return to Reykjavík by evening, possibly stopping at the Blue Lagoon on the way (needs advance booking). This completes your clockwise Ring Road journey with the South Coast's highlights.

Counterclockwise 7-Day Itinerary

If you prefer to start with Iceland's famous highlights, the Counterclockwise route might be for you. This itinerary follows the same Ring Road but in reverse order, beginning with the popular South Coast and ending with the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

Day 1: Reykjavík to Vík (180 km)

• Drive the South Coast, stopping at Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss waterfalls
• Explore Reynisfjara black sand beach and Dyrhólaey arch
• Overnight in Vík

Day 2: Vík to Höfn (275 km)

• Visit Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon and Skaftafell National Park
• Explore Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon and Diamond Beach
• Overnight in Höfn

Day 3: Höfn to Egilsstaðir (275 km)

• See Stokksnes peninsula and Vestrahorn mountain
• Drive through the Eastfjords
• Overnight in Egilsstaðir

Day 4: Egilsstaðir to Mývatn (240 km)

• Hike to Hengifoss waterfall
• Visit Dettifoss waterfall
• Arrive at Lake Mývatn
• Overnight near Mývatn

Day 5: Mývatn Area (minimal driving)

• Explore Dimmuborgir, Námaskarð, and Hverfjall
• Relax at the Mývatn Nature Baths
• Overnight near Mývatn

Day 6: Mývatn to Snæfellsnes (515 km)

• Visit Goðafoss waterfall
• Long drive through North Iceland
• Arrive at Snæfellsnes Peninsula
• Overnight on Snæfellsnes

Day 7: Snæfellsnes to Reykjavík (125 km)

• Explore Kirkjufell, Djúpalónssandur, and Arnarstapi
• Return to Reykjavík in the evening

Conclusion

Planning an Iceland Ring Road trip comes down to personal preference. There's no single right way to experience this incredible route. Both clockwise and counterclockwise directions have their merits.

Whichever direction you pick, the key to enjoying Iceland's Ring Road is having enough time (at least 7 days, ideally 10-14), staying flexible, and embracing the journey itself.

Frequently Asked Questions