Hafnarhólmi: Iceland's Most Accessible Puffin Paradise

What is Hafnarhólmi?

Hafnarhólmi is a small rocky islet at the harbor of Borgarfjörður Eystri, a remote fjord in East Iceland. It was connected to the mainland in the 1970s by a rock causeway to create a sheltered marina for local fishing boats. The name means "Harbor Islet," showing its role in protecting the boat dock.

Hafnarhólmi brings together Iceland's fishing heritage with wildlife viewing. Fishermen from the small village of Bakkagerði (about 100 people) have used this harbor for years. Today, boats still dock here, but the islet is now known for its seabird colony.

The area became a wildlife viewing spot in the late 1990s when local landowners and conservation groups built wooden walkways for visitors to see the birds without disturbing them. The land was given to BirdLife Iceland to protect it as a bird sanctuary.

Wildlife at Hafnarhólmi

The main attraction at Hafnarhólmi is the Atlantic puffin. About 8,000-10,000 pairs nest here each summer, making it one of Iceland's most accessible puffin colonies.

Puffins are often called "sea parrots" or "clowns of the sea" because of their colorful beaks. These small birds (about 10 inches tall) spend most of their lives at sea but come to land to breed. At Hafnarhólmi, they dig burrows in the grassy slopes where they lay a single egg and raise their chick (called a "puffling").

The puffins here appear to be comfortable with human observers. From the viewing platforms, you can often see puffins walking just a few feet away, cleaning their feathers, or coming back from fishing trips with beaks full of small fish. Their awkward takeoffs and landings are fun to watch.

Besides puffins, Hafnarhólmi has several other seabirds:

• Black-legged kittiwakes nest on the cliff ledges, making a "kitti-wake" call
• Northern fulmars glide on stiff wings, sometimes swooping past the platforms
• Common eider ducks swim in the waters below, the females in brown and males in black and white

During my visit, I saw a few harbor seals swimming in the water below the platforms. Keep an eye on the water, as you might see them too.

The wildlife here benefits from good conservation efforts. The boardwalks keep visitors from damaging nests, and the entry fee helps protect the habitat. Unlike some puffin colonies in Iceland with falling numbers, Hafnarhólmi's population stays stable and is even growing.

Location & How to Get There

Hafnarhólmi is in Borgarfjörður Eystri in the Eastfjords region of Iceland, about 75 km (46.6 miles) east of Egilsstaðir. Getting there requires a short detour from the Ring Road.

From Egilsstaðir (East Iceland's main town), take Route 94 east. The drive takes approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes, passing over a mountain pass before descending into the fjord. The road is now fully paved. Any regular car can make the trip in summer.

Once you arrive in the village of Bakkagerði (Borgarfjörður Eystri), continue through the village and along the shore. The road ends at the small Hafnarhólmi marina parking lot. From there, it's a short walk to the boardwalks and viewing platforms.

If you don't have your own car, options include:

• Limited bus service from Egilsstaðir to Bakkagerði (usually once daily on weekdays during summer)
• Organized tours from Egilsstaðir or Seyðisfjörður
• Taxi services from nearby towns (though this can be expensive given the distance)

Rent a car in Iceland

Visit every corner of the island with total freedom

Check our prices

Best Time to Visit Hafnarhólmi

To see puffins, you need to visit at the right time. The puffins arrive in mid-April and leave by early to mid-August. This is your window to see these birds.

For the best experience, visit between May and July when the colony is most active. I visited in May and saw plenty of puffins in mid-morning, though early mornings or evenings usually have the most activity.

During breeding season, puffins follow a daily pattern:

• Early morning: Many birds are present before leaving to fish
• Midday: Quieter as many birds are out at sea fishing
• Evening: Peak activity as puffins return with food for chicks
• Around sunset: Good time to observe social behaviors

In summer, you can watch puffins under the Midnight Sun. In June and early July, you can visit at 10-11 PM and still have enough light to see birds, and often with fewer visitors around.

Outside puffin season (September through March), Hafnarhólmi is still open but much quieter. The coastal scenery remains beautiful, but you won't see puffins during these months.

Visitor Experience & Facilities

The setup at Hafnarhólmi allows you to get quite close to the birds without disturbing them.

From the harbor parking area, a wooden pathway and staircase leads up onto the islet. This connects to a series of boardwalks and viewing platforms that zigzag up the hill. The wooden steps are easy to use, though people with mobility issues might find the upper sections harder to reach.

Several observation platforms at different heights provide safe, fenced viewpoints directly above puffin nests. At the highest point, there’s small wooden bird-watching hut that offers shelter from wind or rain, with benches and viewing slats.

Along the trail, signs explain the bird species, their life cycles, and conservation efforts. These educational elements are super insightful and helpful, especially for families.

At the base of Hafnarhólmi stands the Hafnarhús (Harbor House), which opened in 2020. This modern building serves both fishermen and tourists with:

• A café serving coffee, snacks, and light meals
• Restrooms
• Indoor seating with large windows overlooking the harbor
• Local art exhibitions

The entry fee is 500 ISK (about $3.60/€3.30) as of 2025, and all proceeds go toward maintaining the boardwalks, educational materials, and conservation efforts. Previously, this was a voluntary donation, but it became mandatory to ensure the sustainable management of the increasing number of visitors (around 50,000 annually).

Photography Tips at Hafnarhólmi

Hafnarhólmi is excellent for photography. Few places offer such close access to puffins in their natural habitat. Even with a basic camera or smartphone, you can take good pictures.

For puffin photos:

• Bring a zoom lens if possible (200mm or longer is ideal), but even a standard lens can work from the closest platforms
• Use a faster shutter speed (at least 1/500s) to capture birds in flight
• Try to photograph puffins with fish in their beaks
• Position yourself at the lower platforms for eye-level shots of birds on the water
• Visit during golden hour (early morning or evening) for better lighting
• Be patient and watch for behaviors like preening, bill-rubbing, or wing-stretching

Remember to follow ethical wildlife photography practices:

• Stay on the boardwalks
• Avoid loud noises or sudden movements that might startle wildlife
• Don't use flash photography around the nesting birds
• Give other visitors space to enjoy the views too

The Midnight Sun in summer provides a unique lighting opportunity for photography.

Things to Do Nearby

While Hafnarhólmi itself might take 1-2 hours of your time, the surrounding area offers plenty to round out your visit to East Iceland.

Álfaborg (Elf Rock)

Just across the bay from Hafnarhólmi lies Álfaborg, a rocky hill steeped in Icelandic folklore. Local legends claim this natural formation is home to the queen of the elves.

A short walking path takes you to the top, where you can enjoy panoramic views of the fjord. The site gives visitors a taste of Iceland's rich folklore traditions that still influence local culture today.

The walk is easy enough for most visitors and provides a perfect complement to bird watching at Hafnarhólmi.

Stórurð Hike

Stórurð, meaning "Giant Boulders," offers one of the area's most rewarding hiking experiences. This popular 4-5 hour hike (12-15 km round trip) takes you through a dramatic valley dotted with massive boulders and crystal-clear blue pools. The landscape feels almost otherworldly, with huge rocks scattered among lush greenery.

The trail begins near the village of Borgarfjörður Eystri and is well-marked, though it involves some elevation gain. The effort pays off with stunning views and unique geology unlike anywhere else in Iceland.

Pack water and snacks as there are no services along the trail.

Víknaslóðir Trails

The Víknaslóðir, or "Deserted Inlets Trails," form a network of hiking paths connecting abandoned fjords and former farming settlements. These historic routes offer glimpses into Iceland's past when small communities dotted these now-empty coastlines.

Depending on your time and fitness level, you can choose anything from easy 2-hour walks to challenging multi-day treks. Many trails provide coastal views and pass through varied terrain, including meadows, beaches, and mountain passes.

Bakkagerði Village

The tiny village of Bakkagerði itself is worth exploring beyond its role as a gateway to Hafnarhólmi. The historic Lindarbakki turf house, dating to 1899, showcases traditional Icelandic architecture with its grass-covered roof and bright red trim.

Several local artists maintain small galleries that display and sell their work, often inspired by the region's dramatic landscapes and wildlife. The village church, though small, contains paintings by Jóhannes Kjarval, one of Iceland's most celebrated artists, who grew up in this area.

Regional Attractions

If you're spending more time in East Iceland, several worthwhile destinations lie within day-trip distance.

• The picturesque fishing village of Seyðisfjörður, approximately 1.5 hours away by car, is renowned for its vibrant Norwegian-style wooden houses and thriving arts scene.
• Near Egilsstaðir, you can explore Hallormsstaður, Iceland's largest forest, with walking paths winding through birch trees, a rare sight in a country that almost has no trees.
• Also near Egilsstaðir is Hengifoss, Iceland's third-highest waterfall, which displays striking red clay layers between basalt rock. The hike to reach it takes about an hour each way and offers views of another waterfall, Litlanesfoss, along the route.

Practical Tips for Visitors

To make the most of your visit to Hafnarhólmi, keep these practical tips in mind:

What to wear and bring:

• Dress in layers, as even summer days can be windy and cool (40-55°F/5-13°C)
• Waterproof jacket and pants are useful in this changeable climate
• Sturdy walking shoes with a good grip for the boardwalks
• Binoculars for closer views of birds
• Reusable water bottle and snacks if visiting outside café hours

Wildlife viewing etiquette:

• Stay on the designated boardwalks at all times
• Keep noise levels down to avoid disturbing nesting birds
• Don't feed the wildlife
• Drone flying is not allowed during the breeding season

Planning considerations:

• Allow 1-2 hours for the puffin viewing experience itself
• The drive from Egilsstaðir takes about 1 hour each way
• Check road conditions in advance if visiting outside the summer months
• Bring cash for the entry fee, though credit cards are accepted at the café
• Consider bringing a head net in July when midges can be numerous inland

Conclusion

Hafnarhólmi offers a unique opportunity to observe wild animals in their natural habitat, up close, without disturbing them. The design of the viewing platforms, combined with the naturally trusting nature of the puffins, creates an experience accessible to everyone, from serious birders to families with young children.

Frequently Asked Questions About Hafnarhólmi